Evolution of bush dining in the Mara

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Evolution of bush dining in the Mara
Evolution of bush dining in the Mara. (Courtesy)

On a hill overlooking the heart of the Masai Mara wilderness, Samuel Karkar sets up a portable grill on a gas stove. Here, he will skew some sausages while pieces of bacon fry on low heat on an adjacent iron cast pan.

Set on a nearby set table are various types of cereals, cold milk, freshly-squeezed juice, honey and several bread spreads. The table stands in sharp contrast to the red oat grass and a favourite for the ungulates.

Samuel, who grew up near Talek in Mara, had woken up some minutes to five in the morning to set up for the bush breakfast for his guests at Porini Ol Kinyei Safari Cottages, a routine he has kept for the last seven years.

At that early hour, his preparations include a list of all the items needed for the bush kitchen.

“There is no room for error,” he tells me as we watch a herd of elephants heading to a waterhole not far from our vantage point.

“Imagine coming all the way from the camp only to realise you don’t have the knife, or the milk. You not only have to go back but you will also inconvenience the guests who are looking for that unique experience.”

Evolution of bush dining in the Mara
Evolution of bush dining in the Mara. (Courtesy)

All over the plains, such bush kitchens are revolutionising the dining experience, from bush breakfasts to sundowners by blending the allure of the wild with modern culinary sophistication.

The open-air rustic charm connects guests directly with nature and allows chefs to craft their culinary ‘art’ surrounded by the undulating sights and sounds of the wild.

As modalities of global tourism change by attracting the younger and more versatile traveller, bush dining has undergone a fascinating evolution.

And while tour operators of days gone by solely spelled out what a guest experience ought to look like, today’s traveller has much more say in the planning, including what meals to eat, where, and when. Style matters, including guests dressing up in themed garb for these meals.

In yesteryears, bush dining was more about providing what one needed to keep living than setting up a luxury table.

Evolution of bush dining in the Mara
Evolution of bush dining in the Mara. (Courtesy)

For example, when former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill and retired US President Theodore Roosevelt came to Kenya on their famed hunting expeditions early on in the 20th Century, all that was required were meals easy to prepare and transport.

A simple campfire with the basics of provisions did the trick. Despite their high profiles, the focus of their meals was on practicality.

Exit the big game hunters and their simple meals and enter luxury safaris where experiences are becoming refined by the day with fresh but locally sourced ingredients fused to international standards by some of the best chefs in the industry.

The bush kitchens are not just preparing meals to fill the stomach but, going by global trends where visitors are becoming more and more aware of the environmental impact of their trips, they are embracing sustainability by using eco-friendly cooking methods that reduce waste and allow for recycling.

And besides offering personalized culinary experiences, the meals should cater to individual preferences and address any medical restrictions.

In many camps within the expansive game reserve, such bush meals start with a game drive, be it early morning or late afternoon departures.

At times, the guides arrange for bush walks where guests get first hand information on how the wild works, including the immense benefits of conserving the flora and fauna in the country.

After such activities, guests are usually tired and hungry, and the meals, usually prepared at locations unknown to the guests, surprise the weary visitors.

“It’s about creating the wow factor,” says Fairman Muhingi, camp manager at JW Marriott Masai Mara.

“We have to create that unique feel, different from the norm. Look, the lodge itself is in a remote location while the bush kitchen is even more remote. Guests usually wonder how we can put all that together while caring for the environment at the same time.”

But while the meals and the wild experiences are thrilling to guests, it is no walk in the park preparing them when you consider the many wild animals roaming within the vicinity.

“Preparing such meals requires a well-coordinated but agile team conscious of the weather conditions and able to monitor animal movements. For example, they need to set up in areas that are less frequented by animals while setting a good sundowner requires clear skies where guests can take memorable photos of the setting sun,” he says.

In Masai Mara, the local community from where most of the staff is sourced from, is conversant with both animal movement while a quick glance into the sky can tell whether it will rain within a given period.

Away from such meals out in the open, some lodges have crafted their own dining experiences where guests are involved in selecting and at times, preparing their own meals. For example, at and Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp, guests can see their meals being prepared in the spacious interactive kitchen, breaking the hitherto ‘secretive’ stereotypes associated with kitchens.

With Kenya becoming a hotspot for global visitors, there is no doubt bush dining has come of age, from a humble beginning to a sophisticated affair, combining the best of nature and unforgettable culinary experiences.

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