In Obama's footsteps: More than just a safari in Masai Mara

The thought of a road trip to Masai Mara is always irresistible, especially if it comes with a dreamy offer, like a recent one that left me humming to myself in anticipation – in the footsteps of the Obama family in Naboisho Conservancy.

This is a journey that put the now globally popular sustainable tourism destination (Naboisho Conservancy) on the map. The Conservancy has been praised for its eco-system conservation efforts.

On D-Day, Brian Kimandi, an enthusiastic photographer/videographer and I were at our pick-up point in CBD, Nairobi at 6.30am.

According to Joseph Ouko, a tour guide with Saruni Group of Properties, we were the only guests for the day’s transfer to Naboisho, which, meant we had the cheerful and professional tour guide to ourselves.

Ouko opted for the Ngong-Suswa-Narok road to avoid the usual traffic on the Nairobi-Maimahiu Highway.

After a thrilling road trip, we were at the vibrant Nkoilale town, home to the Sekenani gate, the transfer point to the Naboisho Conservancy team, our host for the next five days.

Ouko transferred us to Chris Selale, our driver and guide to the conservancy.

Our route took us through a picturesque route, cutting across a “modern” manyatta establishment.

More than 700 families have been settled here in line with the conservation project focusing on re-establishing the former rich Masai Mara ecosystem.

Selale explained the concept of partnering with the local communities to keep the Mara ecosystem clean and clear of waste and plastics. From the clear and clean environment, it was evident that this message had resonated with the community.

As we crossed the seemingly calm Talek River, which borders the Maa settlement, Naboisho Conservancy, and Masai Mara Reserve, the guide pointed out that appearances are deceptive—the river, he says, caused mayhem after it burst its bank in May last year.

Soon we are on the last mile to our destination. Suddenly, we are driving through a murram road. On both sides of the road, was a magnificent indigenous forest.

The chirping, squeaks, chatters, screams, and occasional howling braying laughs are all tales of what lies ahead of us at this destination visited by the then Illinois Senator and his family in 2006 before he became POTUS.

The forest, Selale told us, is a result of what was initiated by Obama with a “handsome” hundred trees 20 years ago.

As I stare in awe, fresh memories of my visit to Aberdare’s Treetops Hotel, a destination visited by the late Queen Elizabeth years ago flood my mind.

The late Queen received the news that her father Albert Frederick Arthur George (King George VI) had passed on, making her the Queen of England.

While at Treetops, I had the opportunity to stay in the room the late Princess and her husband Prince Andrew had shared before receiving the breaking news, I had the pleasure of walking in their footprints to some of the historical places they visited in the Abardares.

It was with these thrilling memories and excitement – to experience walking in the same footsteps as the former US President - the experience included sampling the exclusive tent where he and his family spent their nights, which has since been christened “The Obama Tent”.

The tent is the main attraction to thousands of visitors who have left their footprints in the Obama Forest.

Since then, visitors have contributed to the growth of the over a million trees forest that makes “The Obama Forest”.

Since I was “following the footsteps” of the former POTUS and his family, I would plant a tree to mark my footprints in the Obama forest, which has positively changed Masai Mara’s ecosystem.

Agnes Tonkei, Associate Manager, Saruni Base Camp explained that since Obama’s visit in 2006, it has been the tradition for visitors to plant a tree before departure.

“Guests who visited over the years have planted their trees in the past twenty years, a big contribution to the status of the huge forest that has transformed the formerly dilapidated ecosystem of the entire Masai Mara ecosystem to a beacon of hope.

As we walked towards the Obama Forest, Agnes told us that these conservation efforts in partnership with the community last year were rewarded when Saruni Basecamp won four categories of the 17th edition of the “Eco Warrior Awards” hosted by Ecotourism Kenya.

The annual recognition program celebrates individuals and organisations in the tourism industry leading the way in sustainable and responsible tourism practices, highlighting their commitment to environmental conservation and local community support through innovative initiatives.

“This has been possible because, over the years, we have encouraged our guests to follow the example set by the Obama family, and plant a tree in the Obama Forest,” says the Associate Camp Manager.

Brian and I left our mark at the Obama forest in a tree plant, which the resident forester humourously told us was trees no one million and one and tree no one million and two respectively.

The Obama Forest is located outside the main entrance to the Basecamp. Each member of the Obama Family planted a seedling in this forest in 2006. Today, the forest is visible from a distance and the impact of the forest is experienced as you drive to.

I was surprised the famous Obama Tent was not overboard with luxury. The tent lies adjacent to River Talek, overlooking the expansive Masai Mara National Reserve.

The tent is simple in design, with a touch of the wild and the Maa culture. Sheltering the tent is a pitched roof, which Agnes informs me is made of Kilgoris grass and supported by wooden pillars.

I learned that nothing much has changed since the Obama visit in 2006, except for the fact that the tent got its name from this celebrity visitor. Except for a few “touches,” the tent has retained its original “opulence” as that is what attracts hundreds of visitors to come and have “the Obama Experience”.

After our Obama Forest experience and tree planting our next stop was at the organic vegetable garden, where the gardener explicitly explained the intricacies of growing organic food for guests.

We pick our fresh vegetables and fruits and later through a “live cooking in” Stella, the resident assistant chef guides us in preparing our dinner. It was an interesting session watching Stella skillfully involve us in the process as we listened to her narration of how the Obama Forest saved the staff during a terrifying flooding experience in May last year when the River Talek broke its banks.

“It was a terrifying moment for members of staff as the River Talek, (which surrounds the Camp in an “S” formation, making it a semi-island), broke its banks without warning in the middle of the night,” Stella narrated, adding: thanks to the hundreds of trees and bushes planted through the conservation programme, the trees acted as a shield to prevent the massive floods from claiming lives.

Stella further narrated how the staff at the camp then, found refuge by climbing the trees, until the following morning when they were rescued. She says from this experience, staff, guests and the community are now aware of the benefits of conservation.

Another award-winning project is the Enjoolata Education and Entertainment, designed to inspire and unite the Maasai community and uplift local stakeholders by sharing the benefits of sustainable tourism.

Here three days a week, women from the community are trained and taught how to maximise their talents such as beadwork that can earn them a livelihood.

According to the Camp Manager, the conservation efforts have paid off. The massive floods witnessed over the Mara ecosystem last May ended in a triumphant return of the Mara iconic wilderness.

The sight and sounds of the impact on conservation are like an open centre spread of a newspaper - the evidence is bare - a landscape that has undergone a remarkable transformation, revealing a rejuvenated wilderness that beckons to be explored. From lush plains to meandering rivers, every corner of the Mara left me yearning to visit again soon.